Africa, what?!

The past few days have been a blur of culture shock and disbelief, as we try to deal with the unexpectedly difficult transition from India to Africa. It's been a continuous struggle to process the contrasts of wealth and poverty, the lingering racial tensions and sense of both hope and despair permeating everything.

Jo'burg
Stepping off the plane after an overnight flight from Mumbai, my immediate reaction was one of awe at the open spaces, cleanliness and magnitude of the city. The suburbs of Johannesburg could easily have been any American suburb, where shopping malls, SUVs and chain restaurants fill every neighborhood. But closer inspection revealed a stark contrast to the comforts of American middle class life. Homes are securely enclosed with electric fences and barbed wire. Despite a population of 4 million, the streets are remarkably desolate, since residents dare not walk down the street for fear of being mugged, raped or murdered. Just the other day the owner of our guest house was held at gunpoint during a routine guest drop-off, but was fortunate to escape unharmed.

Reasons for the persistent underlying fear are obvious. Apartheid may officially be abolished, but the country's scars are deep. People openly discuss the - understandable - black resentment for whites, and racial segregation lingers in everything from occupations to neighborhoods. During our tour of the massive township of Soweto, our guide proudly bragged that the previously (apartheid-era) all-black township was now interracial, with a 2% white population. Soweto residents are gradually becoming self-sufficient, he explained, empowered to own their own shack-like homes and shop at their very own malls, rather than travel to the white suburbs.

Cape Town
After two stir-crazy days of being bound to the museums, malls and shuttles of Joburg, our arrival in Cape Town offered a welcome change. Set against the backdrop of the surreal Table Mountain, the city center (near which we're staying) is oozing with hipster trendiness and youthful creativity. The streets lined with uber-chic cafes, bars, art galleries and boutiques create the powerful illusion that I've been transported back to San Francisco. This surely can't be Africa. While the populated streets attest to the relative safety of Cape Town compared to Joburg, the barred windows and gated doors on hotels and shops bring you back to reality... ahh yes, this really is South Africa.