Phew

So I'm opening with a totally random coincidence. Beginning to type the first few words of this post at an internet cafe in Kochi, Kerala, I just glanced over at the TV playing some obnoxious American movie. And what do I see flash on the screen? The Van Ness - California cable car about to explode at the very corner of Russell's old apt on Pacific Ave (all you San Franciscans will know what I'm referring to). Well, that was a complete tangent to my original train of thought, but as such an out-of-place sight, I had to mention it.

As I mentioned, we are now in the southern state of Kerala, a tropical paradise of cleanliness and tranquility compared to the past week. We spent about three days in Varanasi, which were passed primarily hiding from the scorching heat, the relentless touts and the intrusive stares ... funny how I prefaced our visit with stories to Russell of how beautiful and magical the city is. I'm sure that beauty I originally saw in the holy city still exists, but apparently the summer heat and the aggression of the touts in the low season suffice to mask much of it.

Amused by Varanasi's absurdity but completely worn down, we decided to treat ourselves to an upgrade from "Sleeper" class to "2-AC" for the train ride south. And in retrospect, I have no regrets! 54 hours on a train is much better spent with the luxuries of air-conditioning and a blanket to sleep on. Despite a few moments of stir-crazy delusion, the journey was a much needed refuge in which to think, read and of course ... make the chai-wallahs rich. By the end of ride, we had even aquired the endearing titles of "auntie" and "uncle" by the adorable family with whom we shared our sleeper compartment. Needless to say, I'm relieved that my legs remember how to walk and that my stench (after 3 days of no shower!) was not permanent. But I think I'm even more relieved to have landed in one of India's great treasures, where the air feels pure to breathe, the sky is phenomenally blue and people's smiles and curiosity are refreshingly genuine.

Off to go catch another peak at the water before the sun sets behind those fishing nets ..

invisible in Kolkata

After feeling a bit stranded in Darjeeling for several days, we gave up our attempts to get a train and finally made it to Kolkata by air 2 days ago. This city - complete with heat (100F), chaos and color - is the India I remember. Most of the day-to-day sites and experiences are quite familiar, from the street treats of 2 rupee chai and paan to the amusingly obnoxious touts to the disturbing enormity of poverty and class division.

However, I've been astonished by one difference between this trip and my past visits. Being a woman traveler, life can be radically different depending on whether or not you have a male companion. Up until now my India trips have mainly been girls-only, meaning we got the full-on experience of gawking, groping, kisses and hollers from those over-eager Indian men. Now with Russell by my side, it's as if I have a buffer from all that male zeal. It's been blissful, really, but with the "protection" his presence offers also come the frustrating realities of a male-dominated society. These past couple days have awakened a feminist within me of which I was not aware. Sure, the gawking men still gawk, but they dare not speak to me ... really ever. In all business transactions, social interactions, anything, they always address "sir", make eye contact with Russell, expect him to order, pay bills, etc. Even when I do speak, the response is usually directed at him. I guess I need to habituate to gender inequality fast, or one of these days I won't be able to restrain the urge to scream "I exist! I am a woman and I exist - just as much as the man by my side!!!!! I have a brain and a voice, and it's okay to acknowledge my presence!" Ahh, never a dull moment in that complex love-hate relationship with India ... you're guaranteed some emotional mish-mash of hysteria, ecstasy or frustration.

yummy ... SFTGFOP1

Day one in Darjeeling. We've had a refreshing and unexpected welcome to India with a lack of touts and relative calm. If we hadn't spent those characteristically inefficient couple of hours trying to cross the border, I would still believe we were in Nepal from the gentleness and relative reserve of the locals. We even saw the obligatory overturned jeep halfway down the hillside during the drive up the mountain yesterday ... ahh, just like home. Apparently, the natives too perceive themselves as distinct from the rest of the country, as the region is filled with postings and chatter advocating independence for "Ghorkaland".

It sounds like the bizarrely early monsoon-esque rains will be keeping us indoors for many afternoons, but we were lucky enough to have a dry morning to explore the town. Our tour of the "Happy Valley Tea Estate" was surprisingly thorough and educational ... who knew the best SFTGFOP1 (Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe - grade 1 !!!) tea is produced by 19th century machines and under German management? Tea touring was promptly followed by an equally amusing trot through the local zoo (the highest zoo in the world, I might add) and then onto the Mountaineering Museum, where we learned all about the many - both successful and failed - Everest expeditions. Hmm ... seeing this all in print, I feel pretty accomplished for the day.

In retrospect, I now recall how humorous these past couple of days have actually been. Starting with the 5 minutes spent arguing with the immigrations official yesterday over my (obviously!) incorrect statement that my nationality is American. My passport cover says USA, so why didn't I write USA?!?!? I mean, what an incompetent error that is backing up the otherwise impeccably efficient process!!! And then those peaceful moments at the zoo observing the Bengal tiger, interrupted by a raging tourist who - by several elbow jabs and a hearty push - made clear that she had the rights to my tiger-viewing spot! And by far the most amusing anecdote of the day ... according to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute's brochure, their store's equipment is available on a "First Cum First Serve Basis". Hmm. Won't be buying any gear from them.

a bien tot, Nepal

It's our final day in Nepal ... on to Darjeeling, India (famous for their yummy tea, which I am eagerly anticipating!) tomorrow. I'm ready to move on from the congestion of Kathmandu, but not quite prepared to leave the tranquility of the mountain villages which are already fading into memory's blur. It's little consolation to think that we're trading the "energy" of this city for the maddening chaos of India.

I knew it was inevitable ... just a matter of time ... the pressing urge to once again be a productive member of society. These past two months have been truly magical, and restorative on so many levels. But everyday the ache intensifies from a pent up energy to create, produce, DO something besides support the tourism industry. My body is now loudly whining for not feeding my running addiction, and my mind is quickly turning to mush. Interesting how easy it is to feel overstimulated on the perceptual level, yet so understimulated intellectually. As testimony to my very deep science-nerd roots, this morning was spent in the educational district, hunting down the best biochem textbook, and this afternoon passed ravenously reviewing acid/base chem over some delicious masala tea. I guess I should stop complaining, since life really cannot get much better than chai and science!

Back to earth

My life is feeling more like a dream every day that passes ... not necessarily in the "utopia" sense of dream, but more in the way that dream scenes shift rapidly from one theme, environment, state of mind to the next. Just two days ago Russell and I came back to civilization (Pokhara, Nepal, that is) after 14 days trekking through the Annapurnas. Days were both predictable in the sense of routine - wake early, hike hike hike, scarf down dal bhat, read or chat with trekkers and locals, then pass out completely exhausted - yet entirely unpredictable in what the mountain, your mind or body would throw at you.

Each day's journey was like an entirely new world full of its own fresh sights and education. Starting from the lush green base up through the rocky climbs, forests and snowy peaks, we witnessed scenery and lifestyles that I didn't realize have survived the chaos of modernity. Often our only companions for hours would be the occasional donkey train or crying goat (their cry is just so absurdly cute!). It seemed that just as I would begin to feel completely drained and uninspired - whether from the altitude, cuts and bruises, or just the damn mountain! - a local Nepali would humbly trek by to put the situation back into perspective. These men (and women) hike the same mountain, but in flipflops with packs filled with - get this - rocks, beers (for us needy tourists), or 10 ft long metal poles ... supported by their head! No kidding! Gee, my comfy job sitting on my tush all day was so taxing ;)

It's certainly been a bit of reverse culture shock to return to a town with roads, consistently running water and even internet! Where are all the yaks?!