Phew

So I'm opening with a totally random coincidence. Beginning to type the first few words of this post at an internet cafe in Kochi, Kerala, I just glanced over at the TV playing some obnoxious American movie. And what do I see flash on the screen? The Van Ness - California cable car about to explode at the very corner of Russell's old apt on Pacific Ave (all you San Franciscans will know what I'm referring to). Well, that was a complete tangent to my original train of thought, but as such an out-of-place sight, I had to mention it.

As I mentioned, we are now in the southern state of Kerala, a tropical paradise of cleanliness and tranquility compared to the past week. We spent about three days in Varanasi, which were passed primarily hiding from the scorching heat, the relentless touts and the intrusive stares ... funny how I prefaced our visit with stories to Russell of how beautiful and magical the city is. I'm sure that beauty I originally saw in the holy city still exists, but apparently the summer heat and the aggression of the touts in the low season suffice to mask much of it.

Amused by Varanasi's absurdity but completely worn down, we decided to treat ourselves to an upgrade from "Sleeper" class to "2-AC" for the train ride south. And in retrospect, I have no regrets! 54 hours on a train is much better spent with the luxuries of air-conditioning and a blanket to sleep on. Despite a few moments of stir-crazy delusion, the journey was a much needed refuge in which to think, read and of course ... make the chai-wallahs rich. By the end of ride, we had even aquired the endearing titles of "auntie" and "uncle" by the adorable family with whom we shared our sleeper compartment. Needless to say, I'm relieved that my legs remember how to walk and that my stench (after 3 days of no shower!) was not permanent. But I think I'm even more relieved to have landed in one of India's great treasures, where the air feels pure to breathe, the sky is phenomenally blue and people's smiles and curiosity are refreshingly genuine.

Off to go catch another peak at the water before the sun sets behind those fishing nets ..