Jekyll and Hyde

Luxor is a moody city to say the least and over the course of the past five days we've witnessed both faces of her personality. Take yesterday for instance. We began the morning with a ferry ride to the west bank to meet our taxi driver, Said, for day two of temple and tomb-viewing. Along the way we were approached by flocks of Said's "brothers", "cousins" and "uncles" advising us that Said would be unable to meet us, but they were happy to be his replacement driver for a good price. Oh so sneaky and cutthroat! To no surprise, Said was waiting to greet us across the Nile, true to his word, with a big smile and heart of gold. Despite knowing minimal English he worked hard to communicate and welcome us to his city and his taxi 291. He expressed his kindness by ensuring cheap cold water and Coke, pointing out the many commission-based alabaster shops not to patronize and inviting us to his home for lunch. He even concluded our memorable two-day sight-seeing expedition with a gift of a small alabaster statue.

The evening presented no less contrast between the beautiful and the ugly corners of the Egyptian spirit. After dinner and sunset, when the city awakens and emerges from hiding from the scorching heat, we headed to the midan overlooking the illuminated Luxor Temple for some people watching. A young boy approached us to display his collection of foreign coins in request for a new exotic addition. As he neither appeared to be trained with the usual tourist-trapping English phrases nor had the persistence of most begging children, we gladly gave him a stray Indian rupee. This was not only enough to satisfy and please him, but also to pique the curiosity of his family picnicking on the grass across the square. After several shy glances and smiles, his sister and mother (?) ran over to graciously offer us sweet rolls and hurriedly rushed away. The events that unfolded next were in such contrast to this family's generosity and gratitude to verge on amusing absurdity. Seeing the luck this first boy had at getting money from us, a crew of street boys swarmed and begged with feigned misery and almost admirable perseverance. Naive Americans that we are, we made the mistake of giving a single coin (50 Tanzanian shillings) to share between 8 or so boys. There was no hint of appreciation is these boys' response. Rather, a hideous and thoroughly disheartening scene erupted as the enraged 10-year old mob shouted, hit and tackled one another to attain the prize - valued at a mere 20 cents. Dog. Eat. Dog.